6 Pro Tips on Glass Bottle Writing

I had a bunch of champagne bottles to customize and I decided, you know what, let me walk you through the process and share 6 pro tips with you!

Tip 1: How to hold or secure the bottle

Option 1: You can put a cushion underneath your bottle and it will be a lot easier on your hands so that you don't have to carry it.

Option 2: Hold the bottle by the neck with your non-dominant hand, which is my preferred method because I find that it's a lot easier to pivot the bottle in small increments so I'm essentially tilting the bottle bit by bit, pivoting it against the table at the bottom of the bottle.

Imagine the bottle is tilted up at an angle and this allows me to visualize a straight line easily without any parallax error. I generally go for the second method, but if you find it a bit tough on your wrist, you can go with option one: using a cushion underneath and still tilting the bottle. It's just a bit more tedious - just imagine you have the bottle flat down and you have to overarch your back or neck to look at the bottle compared to tilting it up with your hand so that it faces you.

Tip 2: If you make any mistakes, use an alcohol wipe to scratch the ink off

Tip 3: Add flourishes or decorative illustrations to centre / balance your composition

If you are not confident with centring your lines - if let's say it's a little bit too near to the left or a little bit too near to the right and it's not exactly balanced you can always add flourishes to extend your sentences to balance it out.

So for example in this case, the "Frederic" name, I wrote it a little bit too near to to the left so I extended it by adding a little heart shape at the end and that's my usual go-to, to balance things out. In this case and it's only appropriate if it's relevant e.g. if it's a couple, I can add the heart shape but let's say if it's ambiguous I'm not so sure if it's anything like Valentine's Day related or Anniversary related, then I don't add the heart shape. I'll add something else that is like a simple flourish but essentially it works both ways.

So let's say if the word was a little bit too near to the right, I'll add an additional flourish on the letter F - entrance stroke of letter F to extend it further to the left.

Usually I just kind of freehand and freestyle and whatever comes, whatever goes, you know? In this case, there was a bit too much extra space at the bottom, below the date, So I added a little bit of decorative flourishes at the bottom. And I just completed the whole thing by adding the illustrative stars, especially if it is a celebratory or congratulatory message.

Tip 4: Use an oil-based marker

The gold pen I'm using is called the Sakura Pen Touch Gold Pen in fine-tip size. Essentially, you want to go for an oil-based marker and not an acrylic marker - not like a Molotow or any other acrylic-based marker, not a water-based marker like a POSCA because we want to ensure the ink can last. Usually for champagne, the customers are going to put it in the fridge and chill it before they bring it out and you don't want the water from the condensation to ruin your artwork. So you want to go for an oil-based marker because it's more long-lasting and it is ... I wouldn't say it is scratchproof because you can technically scratch the ink off but it's definitely waterproof. For water-based markers, they are not waterproof and acrylic-based markers, they usually water resistant but not waterproof.

My personal preference is… I like a very specific shade of gold which is this particular shade of gold. Not too yellow and not too red tone. If it's red-toned, it's like copper or rose gold and if it's too yellow, it feels very old-fashioned so I like it somewhere, just right. And I also like markers where they dry off with a matte finish, where it looks really clean, very nice, shiny, reflective under the light so yes, it checks all the boxes.

Tip 5: Increase the size of your pen or decrease the size of your pen tip, according to the text length and the bottle size.

For example, if I have a small bottle like a mini champagne or half bottle, I can reduce the marker size from fine tip to extra fine tip. Or let's say I am writing on a 750 ml bottle but the text is long like a 100-word poem, let's say. I don't know who will get that but let's say it's 100 words and I don't want the entire piece to feel very overwhelming, you can reduce the pen size from fine tip down to extra fine so that all the lines still look easy to read with all the negative space.

Likewise, if I'm writing a really big bottle let's say 3 litres, and I only have one word that says "Congrats". Then I can increase the size of the tip from fine to medium-sized.

It's good to have various pen sizes and you can switch accordingly depending on the 1.Text length and 2. Size of the bottle itself.

Tip 6: Recommend a custom message that fits the bottle shape for a well balanced composition.

If you notice the shape of the champagne, it's narrower at the top and it goes wider and wider to the base so generally speaking if let's say the client comes to me and says they want a really long word and that's the first word - I try to advise the client: "Is there a way you can rephrase, if possible?"

So for example "Congratulations" is a really long word relative to the word "Audrey" I mean of course if they really want this fixed text I would just say "Yes let me do it for you, I can get it done" but if they are like "Can you recommend me something that is fitting for a birthday?" then I will recommend a phrase that doesn't have a really long word as the first few words.

Generally speaking, you want it to look nice across the entire bottle so if the longer words can sit at the bottom, that would be a lot easier, composition-wise.

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Alright, I hope you enjoyed this blog post - if you did, let me know which tip you found most helpful. If you’ve any questions along the way, don’t hesitate to comment your question below or DM me on Instagram and I’ll be sure to answer and help.

Last but not least, I share these thinking that most of the people who watch it would likely be a practising artist - maybe you want to venture into a new material or surface or item or a new service but if you are someone who has not tried calligraphy before and you want to learn and you want to master calligraphy, then I would point you towards my calligraphy course. It's completely online or if you're in Singapore, you can also take it with me in person and even if you are practising calligrapher and you want to level up, feel free to check it out as well.

Anyway, I'm just sharing so if any of you guys are interested you can check it out and there's also a free class preview, you can watch one lesson to see if it's a right fit. If it's not, no pressure, no worries. You can always wait till my next tutorial - feel free to comment on what you want to learn!

How to Hand Engrave Calligraphy on Glass, Wine & Champagne Bottles - Full Process, Tools & Tips

Part of my calligraphy services includes engraving for corporate and personal customisation orders. And I've been asked several times on socials about my process.

So I decided to take this opportunity to film a process video on hand-engraving on glass.

And also to show you the difference between 2 engravers:

1. Dremel Stylo + (which was what I used before upgrading to...)

2. Brushless Engraver

Tools

• Stabilo All Pencil

• Rub ‘N Buff

• Dremel Stylo +

• Brushless Engraver

Step 1: Safety’s first!

Always make sure that you prioritize safety first - always have a mask on because the glass dust particles are really bad for health and always have some form of eye goggles or protection on as well.

Step 2: Draft out your calligraphy design

I’m using the Stabilo All Pencil and this has a soft and waxy lead which helps you write on the glass surface. It is water-soluble so if you have not decided on your final design, you can edit it in a certain way. If you do not have the Stabilo All Pencil, you can definitely go with any other water-soluble markers e.g. Posca Markers, Micron, or a Pentel Brush Pen because after you engrave your design, you can use a damp cloth to wipe away any of the marks.

Step 3: Engrave using a thicker bur e.g. 1.2mm

Here I’m using a Brushless Engraver. This engraver is very quiet and easy to use. It also turns on really fast and goes up all the way to 35,000 rpm. Not to mention, it’s cordless too, which is great for live calligraphy events.

Alternatively, you can also go for the Dremel Stylo +. This is a more budget-friendly option which is what I started out with and I think if you're just starting out, this is a really good option regardless, compared to the other Dremel tools which are chunkier in size. The Dremel Stylo+ is so much easier to hold, kinda like holding a thicker pen.

But definitely, if you're in the market for something better, then the brushless engraver is the way to go! Previously when I was using the Dremel Stylo +, it kind of bounces off the glass. And if you really want to fine-tune the shade or swell for a stroke ie. how thick it is and whether or not you can do like a smooth stroke for the thick downstrokes - It's so much easier with the brushless engraver. The difference is really considerably noticeable.

Anyway, regardless of any engraver that you're using, you just want to make sure that you are letting the tool work for you so don't do not apply a heavy amount of pressure, lightweight pressure will do. That is what the rotation of the rotary tool itself does by kind of like chipping into the glass in a very controlled way.

Here I’m using the 1.2mm bur, tracing over my draft design to create a monoline script first.

Step 4: Engrave using a thinner bur e.g. 0.5mm to create a faux calligraphy look

Next, switch out to a thinner bur e.g. 0.5mm to have more control while creating a faux calligraphy look. What you want to do, is to add a shade / swell to all downstrokes of your script and keeping all upstrokes thin (monoline). This creates visual contrast, which makes your script look really pretty and elegant!

While you’re on step 3 and 4 engraving as you go, do wipe off the glass dust particles occasionally using a brush or your hand (optional: with gloves on).

P.S. If you're wondering on how to do the calligraphy side of things, I have a blog article linked here that goes into the details of how to keep like the calligraphy straight, centered, balanced - things like that and some hot tips and tricks where you know maybe if you have written the word a little bit too far out on the left-hand side, how do you fix that and make it centered again!

Step 5: Apply Amaco Rub ‘N Buff

Next, you want to apply the gold filling or any other color that you prefer so here I'm using the Amaco Rub ‘N Buff (gold leaf colour) to do the gold fill. Just use a q-tip and apply it all over your engraved design. Make sure to have an even coverage all over but at the same time, there's no need to put like a huge amount. A little bit goes a long way so just smear it all around and try your best to avoid the wine label in case it stains it.

Step 6: Buff out the residue to achieve an even polished surface

And here comes the most dreaded part that I hate the most! And that is buffing out the residue so that you have an even polished surface. Get that arm workout in!

Step 7: Wipe down and it’s ready to be delivered!

But it's okay it's all worth it in the end, just make sure you take your time so here's the final result of the wine bottle and it's ready to be shipped out and delivered. I hope you enjoyed learning about my process and if you have any questions just leave them down below and I'll be happy to answer them!

P.S. If you’re looking to start your calligraphy journey or improve your current skills, feel free to check out my online calligraphy course here!

How to Calligraph on Wine & Champagne Bottles! Sharing all my tips & tricks!

I’ve recently wrapped up a custom calligraphy project with Manulife Singapore, where I was sent 110 bottles of wine and champagne to customise. After sharing images and videos about these, I’ve received several questions about my process, so here’s a list of compiled questions and answers to help you if you ever wanna do something similar!

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Process

1. Before writing, first ensure that the bottles are in room temperature, not chilled. Condensation on the bottle is hard to work with and it’s a definite no go!

2. Sort all names in alphabetical order and print out the name lists for easy reference. For me, I printed out one name list for Champagne and another name list for Merlot, both lists in alphabetical order with allocated quantity.

3. I’m using Painty Metallic Gold Marker by Zig. Shake well and test on paper first before writing in case of any ink explosion (we definitely don’t want that!).

4. Ensure that your writing surface is clean from any dust. When shipped in boxes, they tend to be quite dusty straight from the box! This step helps to prevent any clogging or y’know those bumpy small areas in your ink when dried? Yeah, nasty stuff. Clean yo’ surfaces for smooth application AND finish!

5. To stay organised, you may also have a separate pen to check off names when you’re done with each bottle. But, I personally skipped this! I think it slows me down a little. (Or, have someone help you out with this step!)

6. Don’t forget to let your ink dry, don’t touch or accidentally smudge it.

7. As I’m writing, I line up the bottles in rows of 5 or 10 so it’s easier to count the quantities in total at the end. Once done, double check spelling and the total number of bottles. We wanna ensure that the Client gets all the bottles with everything spelt right with accuracy! Getting sent back bottles with misspelt names equals double the admin, process and work so let’s strive to get everything right first time round!

8. Don’t forget to photograph your work so that you can add em to your portfolio for future client jobs!

9. Finally, time to pack! Remember to tape all ends of the boxes both top and bottom to secure in case of damage during transport or shipping. I also label each box at the top for the Client’s easy reference. So for example, if a box contains all names from L to W, I’ll write "L-W” at the top of the box.

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You’ve asked some Q’s, here are the A’s! + tips and tricks!

Q1: How do you keep your calligraphy straight?

Thankfully, the Merlot labels are rectangular and that helped to provide a straight reference guide for me. I personally find circle labels or anything curved to be trickier to visualise a straight line!

*Hot tip!* When you’re writing, remember to rotate and tilt the bottle with your non-writing hand in small increments while pivoting the bottom of the bottle against your writing surface. This helps to support your script and writing hand while maintaining good eye-level alignment (ie. no parallax error which causes letters sloping downwards) Here’s a visual example:

Alternatively, you can also use pencils and draw guidelines for yourself prior to writing. Stabilo All Pencil or Glass Marking Pencil (White) would work great for glass surfaces! Or potentially, you may also use a white chalk pencil. If you do go for this step, remember to only rub off the marks with a cloth or tissue only after the initial gold ink has fully dried.

Q2: How do you keep your calligraphy centred?

Great question! This definitely comes with practice and experience. Try to visualise the middle letter to be directly underneath or above the mid-portion of the label. For example, if I’m writing the name “Gabriella”, I can visualise letter “i” as the central letter of the name and this letter should sit at the middle of the bottle. From here, I’ll gauge how far left and right the other letters would go.

*Note: This also depends on the capital letter! For example, a capital G or M is wider in width than a capital I. So do adjust accordingly.

*Hot Tip!*: If you’ve a really long name to write, try air-writing on the bottle first to gauge spacing ie. hover your finger above or on the bottle and practise writing to see if it works first. Once you’ve your eyes fixed on the placement, try it with the marker.

*Hot Tip!*: If you’ve finished writing a name and see that it’s not centred, here are two ways to fix:

1. If the name is flushed towards the right, add additional flourishes to your first capital letter to extend the front part of the name.

2. If the name is flushed towards the left, extend the last stroke of your last letter (also known as an exit stroke) to extend the last part of the name.

And if all else fails, read Q3!

Q3: What happens when you misspell? Does the Client provide you with extras?

Wine and champagne aren’t cheap so the Client didn’t provide extras for me, which I totally understand! Usually, for more budget-friendly product materials such as branded notecards or anything paper, I’d ask for anywhere between 10% to 25% additional quantity. But in this case, I didn’t. Anyway, no worries! If you misspell anything, you can quickly remove the ink using rubbing alcohol since the marker is an oil-based one.

*Note: If you’re doing calligraphy engraving, however, there’s no going back! In this case, I’d recommend perhaps adding marking guidelines with the pencils I’ve mentioned above in Q1. Or you can also use a liquid chalk marker to draft your design and engrave directly thereafter as chalk ink can be easily removed afterwards with a damp cloth, leaving you with only the engraved design. For anyone who’s interested, I use Stylo+ by Dremel for engraving!

Q4: Can I use other types of markers?

I’ve tried other markers before finally sticking to Painty Metallic Gold Marker by Zig. I find that this marker gives a really good and bright shine while still being semi-matte. And I love this look! I’m usually very particular with the gold shade too - overly yellow warm gold isn’t my favourite. I prefer a more cool-toned gold. Either way, experiment with other markers and see which you like! I’d definitely stick to oil-based markers instead of any acrylic or water-based markers as oil-based inks are resistant to water and scratches but acrylic or water-based ones may risk smudging or lack in longevity (especially when the customer brings the bottle out after chilling and water condensation hits).

Q5: Do you seal your writing?

I don’t as I’m using oil-based markers! If you’re using acrylic or water-based markers then yes, seal it!

Q6: How long did everything take?

For all 110 bottles, I believe I took 3-4 hours! And 1 hour for packing and unpacking, counting, printing the name list etc. etc. - all the admin things. Oh, btw - 1 painty metallic marker lasted me through the whole thing!

Q7: How did you get this job?

Manulife emailed me via my website! I had other wine engraving and custom inked wine bottles on my website so I believe that’s how they found me. Always remember to photograph your work and share on socials and/or portfolio! If you don’t have any prior bottles to show, don’t let that stop you. Be your own client and buy yourself or a friend one (or some) and treat it like a client job! You can also practise your script in pencil first and once you’re comfortable and confident, try it on the bottle.

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That’s all for now! I hope this helps. If you’ve any questions along the way, don’t hesitate to comment your question below or DM me on Instagram and I’ll be sure to answer and help. Thanks for reading and all the best with your wine writing! 🥳️

P.S. If you’re looking to start your calligraphy journey or improve your current skills, feel free to check out my online calligraphy course here!